Beginner climbing in Siurana – The good and the bad
No climbing area has gained in popularity in recent years as Siurana. Great weather, countless routes, good protection and a relaxed atmosphere are a guarantee for a great climbing trip. Despite the many climbers climbing here during the year, there are many sectors where nothing or very little is going on. Polished rock is very hard to encounter, and really badly bolted routes are rather the rarity. Nevertheless, we believe that sectors and routes are better suited for beginners than others. This should be an attempt to make your choices easier and show the good and the bad. To find more information about Siurana or if you are interested in a course with us then check out the homepage www.climbingsiurana.com/en
Climbing in Siurana – The good
“Can Marges de baix”
One of the most popular sectors of Siurana is “Can Marges”. Here you will find 13 routes in the 5th grade and 19 routes in the 6th grade. The rock is a little worn out in some places, but can still be excellently climbed. The routes have been rebolted in many places with glue ins and the belay area is almost always great. The routes “Rollito inf” (5, 15m) and “Currupipi” (5,15m) are very nice and easy.
“Grau dels Masets Cami”
This sector is located on the way to “Grau dels Masets esquerra” and is characterized by well-bolted easy routes. Here you can find 4 great routes in the 5th grade and 8 routes in 6th grade (of which 3 are suitable for beginners). Of the five, we can highly recommend the “El trinxant” (5+,20m). The route is well protected until the top and the rock is one of the best you in Siurana. The climbing sector is very sunny and there is plenty of space for children at the foot of the wall.
“Grau of Masets esquerra”
There are routes in the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh grade. We have not yet climbed a bad route here ourselves, which really makes this sector one of the best in Spain. If you want to climb in Siurana, you have to go here! The wall is sunny until late afternoon and the belay area is super comfortable. Route recommendations are: “Mandarina” (4, 12m), “Arbres” (4+,18m), “Why” (6a,30m Top 10 route in Siurana), “Arnau” (6a+, 25m)
Attention to the route “Menuts” (4,15m): The anchor is very questionable and in our opinion not suitable. It is best to the right to the anchor of “Mandarina”.
“Can Weekend”
A very quiet sector for climbing in Siurana. Here, you are almost always alone. The wall is south-facing but unfortunately the belay area is rather narrow so it’s not suitable with children. You can climb some of the best fives in Siurana. The routes are good protected and the rock is absolutely perfect. There are even two 4s that are worth it. The route recommendations are: “Ultrachoni” (4+,18m), “Camagroc”(5,18m), “No patxaran” (5,18m), “Ano Mariano” (5+,18m)
Guidebook Siurana by David Brasco
The climbing guide is a must-have in Siurana. The approaches are often somewhat hidden and not marked. Thanks to the great guidebook, however, you will find the approaches and routes very easy. In addition, the proceeds will be directly included in the rebolting of the climbing routes. You can buy the climbing guide in the local climbing store “Goma 2”.
Klettern in Siurana – the bad
“El Pati”
The most famous and most visited sector in Siurana. Many first-time visitors get lost here and are then disappointed that there is hardly anything to climb for them. This sector is suitable for very advanced climbing. Here you should be able to climb at least 7b+ so that you do not have to queue constantly. The easy routes are often done by all climbers as warm-up routes and are therefore polished and overrun. The easiest route in the sector, a 6b+ called “lame chucha baby” is also poorly secured.
“Can Melafots”
This sector is right next to the large parking lot in Siurana and is popular and often visited. The rock in Can Melafots is very slippery and does not climb well for beginners. The bolts are often a bit poorly placed, and you have to be very careful belaying there. You first have to get used to the climb in this sector to have fun.
Climbing with a lot of wind
In Siurana it’s often very windy, especially in winter. In such weather, one should avoid the area of the Siurana valley (sector “Herbolari” to “Espero Primavera”), since there is always a lot of wind. The sectors which are sheltered from the wind are on the village side of Siurana from “Salt de la Reina Mora” to “El Ditot”.
Topo Apps
With the popular Topo Apps for the smartphone, you will get lost very easily in the area. The information in these apps is often incomplete. In addition, your money does not go to the local economy, (which helps in maintaining the area), but to IT companies abroad.
Hopefully the tips will help you to plan your climbing trip to Siurana. Visit us climbing in Spain!
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